In 1999, The Chronicle Food section cooked more than 28 turkeys to find the best method of producing a plump, juicy bird. Our favorite -- by far -- was the turkey that we brined before roasting.

To be sure nothing had changed, we retested the recipe last year and loved the turkey just as much.

Brining produces an incomparably juicy turkey, with wonderful flavor and texture. If you don't have room to brine the turkey in the refrigerator, use an ice chest. Place the turkey and the brine in a heavy-weight plastic garbage bag (don't use bags made from recycled materials), then place that bag inside a second bag. Smoosh out all the air pockets, close the inner bag, then the outer, and pack in the chest with ice. The bird will happily -- and safely -- brine away.

Brining works best with a 12- to 16-pound unstuffed turkey roasted at 400 degrees. If you need to serve more people it's best to roast two smaller turkeys. However, if you do choose to brine a bigger bird, figure that a 20- to 22-pound brined turkey may take 3 1/2-4 1/2 hours to cook. The oven temperature should be the same (350 degrees) as for the unbrined Big Bird instructions that follow.

Here's how to brine the turkey, along with a re-cap of the best way to roast an unbrined turkey, the best way to roast a large turkey, and the best way to grill-roast a turkey -- all unstuffed. We found it's best to bake the stuffing separately, but for the best way to roast a stuffed turkey see the chart elsewhere in this section.

In all cases, roasting times may vary depending on the temperature of the turkey when it goes in the oven, the accuracy of the oven thermostat, how many times you open the oven door and how long you leave it open (each time the door is opened, the oven temperature can drop 75 degrees).

To be sure it's done, the turkey's internal temperature should be 165 degrees at the thickest part of the thigh. When pricked with a fork, the juices should run clear. After taking it out of the oven and before carving it,

let the turkey rest 20-30 minutes; the internal temperature will continue to rise several degrees.

BEST WAY BRINED TURKEY

This is the Food staff's favorite turkey. Brine the turkey for 12 to 24 hours, using the accompanying recipe for the brine from Chez Panisse.

Before roasting, rinse and dry the turkey well, and roast according to the directions for the Best Way Traditional turkey, but do not sprinkle the turkey with salt.

Start checking the internal temperature after about 1 1/2 hours of roasting time. If the legs begin to overbrown, cover them loosely with foil. Roast until the internal temperature measured in the thigh reaches 165 degrees, about 2-2 3/4 hours.

If you would like to make gravy with the brined turkey's pan juices, note that they may be very salty, and you may not want to use all of the juices.

BEST WAY TRADITIONAL

(UNBRINED)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Spread 2 tablespoons of softened butter over the skin and sprinkle 4 1/2 teaspoons of kosher salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons of ground pepper over the skin and in the cavity. Tuck the wing tips under, loosely truss the legs and place the turkey on a v-shaped rack in a roasting pan. Tent the breast with foil and place the turkey in the oven.

After about 1 hour, remove the foil and baste the turkey with 1/2 cup stock. Re-baste it with pan drippings and more stock, if desired, every 20 minutes.

Roast the turkey until the internal thigh temperature reaches 165 degrees, 1 3/4-2 1/4 hours.

BEST WAY GRILL-ROASTED

Brine the turkey according to the accompanying recipe, then rinse and dry the turkey well. Rub the skin with 2 tablespoons of softened butter and sprinkle with 1 1/2 teaspoons of pepper on the skin and inside the cavities.

Prepare a covered grill with a charcoal fire, centering an aluminum or metal drip pan directly under the grill and arranging the coals on either side.

Place some liquid -- water, stock or wine -- in the pan to create steam during grilling. If you want to smoke the turkey, soak applewood chips as directed on the package, then sprinkle a handful over the hot coals.

Place the prepared turkey on the grill, close the cover and cook the turkey until the internal thigh temperature registers 165 degrees, about 2 1/4-3 hours. Every 30 minutes, baste the turkey with some stock. Add additional coals, soaked chips (if using) and liquid to the drip pan as needed to maintain an even temperature. Cover the turkey with aluminum foil if it begins to overbrown.

BEST WAY BIG BIRD

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Prepare a 20- to 22-pound turkey as directed for the Best Way Traditional bird, but double the amount of softened butter, salt and pepper. Roast and baste (using about 1 cup of stock) according to the Best Way Traditional directions. Cover the legs with foil if they begin to overbrown. Roast until the internal thigh temperature registers 165 degrees, about 3 1/2 hours.

CHEZ PANISSE'S TURKEY BRINE

INGREDIENTS

2 1/2 gallons cold water

2 cups kosher salt

1 cup sugar

2 bay leaves, torn into pieces

1 bunch fresh thyme, or 4 tablespoons dried

1 whole head of garlic, cloves separated and peeled

5 whole allspice berries, crushed

4 juniper berries, smashed

INSTRUCTIONS

Put the turkey into the brine and refrigerate for 24 hours. If the turkey floats to the top, weight it down with a plate and cans to keep it completely submerged in the brine.

Note: You may halve or double the recipe. The important thing is to prepare enough brine to cover the turkey completely.

To roast: Remove the bird from the brine, rinse and drain well. Pat dry. Follow the Best Way instructions for roasting, above.